Відео

Awesome! I blow my filters out every month or so but otherwise no maintenance. I would streamline it a little more by designing it to just fit the filters though, it’s pretty bulky.

Honestly, I am as well, I tried it some more and it really doesn’t work great. I just accept the dust at this point.

Great question! I have a 4in to 2.5in reducer to bring it up to the 4in hose. Then a Y between the bottom and tip to bring the two lines together. 4in to 2.5in Adapter amzn.to/3zol39W

Great question! It really depends on which part of the chicken tractor you’re looking at. For my tractor I didn’t use any joinery but instead used metal brackets and screws or a cross brace and lag bolts to secure corners. Glue will certainly help with rigidity but if you’re securing one of the bottom corners, you’re still better off using cross bracing. Here’s a link to that video ua-cam.com/video/gNHgVOtFnGQ/v-deo.htmlsi=TaBTib4IrxA-W2SH

@@NorthwestCraftsman thank you for the quick reply. I was thinking for the top of the tractor, which makes the a frame. I'm not very experienced with woodworking, but I just want it to be sturdy enough. Since it will be about 6 feet tall, it shouldn't get hit or anything.

Well, can’t respond fast to all of them I guess 😂 I’m not sure I know how you’re designing your tractor (feel free to shoot me an email). In general a butt joint is pretty weak, though very easy. Screws/glue will help but I’d recommend a cross brace or metal hardware at a minimum, especially if it’s a square or rectangular frame. If you do go ahead and glue it, make sure to use Titebond III since it’s waterproof.

@@NorthwestCraftsman I sent you an email with some detailed questions and pictures.

Thanks! Just saw it and responded 😊

Great question. There are lots of different ways and though I’ve never done a jamb, I’d probably lean into a rabbet, lap, or finger joint where the top meets the side jambs.

Glad I could help!

That’s a fascinating question. Round objects are tough to hold, spheres even more so. I haven’t needed to but if I did, a drill vise should be able to get enough purchase on your sphere to keep it from moving. It will also depend how big a hole you’re drilling. If a big one, you may need to create a jig that hugs the sphere and then use some blue tape and super glue to temporarily secure it down.

Glad I could help!

Great question. I did and it’s been mostly good though, the helical blades in this machine are not all their cracked up to be. Don’t get me wrong, the finish is great and longevity of the blades is great. But because of the continuous loading on the motor, I trip my breaker frequently when I take anything more than 1/32” passes on hardwood. Doesn’t seem like a big deal but when you’re doing a big project, I’ve sunk hours into planing.

Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful! I wish you luck as well!

Glad I could help!

So glad I could help! Hope you love it as much as I’ve loved mine!

Thanks!

That’s amazing 😂 some love it, most don’t. And that’s mostly true, with my helical blade it cares a lot less than the straight blades.

Glad I could help! They’re shockingly good guns for $15 at Harbor Freight

I appreciate the feedback. I’d love to have the lacquer finish better because it’s so much easier to apply than the others. I’ll be running another test at some point this year and will add another test to see if this was a fluke.

@@NorthwestCraftsman Also, another possible explanation is that it wasn't full cured. To be fully cured, lacquer often takes a ridiculously long time, maybe a month or so. This will make it significantly harder.

Fascinating! I’ll keep that in mind for the next one. My goal on this one was to follow the mfr instructions to get the fairest comparison

That is something I have grown to appreciate more over the past couple years. Especially with customers, trying to steer them to the right species can be a challenge.

Thanks! The orbital mode moves the blade forward on the down stroke for quicker, albeit rougher cuts.

@@NorthwestCraftsman thanks. Yesterday I tried out the saw and figured that out trying at a slow speed I could see the blade kinda moving forward on an axis. This thing is a beast.

Sure is! I love it

Totally get where you're coming from. The reason I went with Oneida is that they have some of the best dust entrainment in the industry; especially in their commercial dust collectors. From an engineering standpoint (my background), a lot of the efficiency depends on the interaction between volumetric flow and the shape of the cyclone (as you suggested). I haven't done a direct comparison with this cyclone but based on the performance of their other models, I assume the engineering was done on this one as well. Actually as one datapoint, at one of the engineering companies I worked for, we used these on 5 gallon buckets to collect plastic powders that averaged a particle size of ~55um. Of course this was on a distribution so we also had particles that were <10um and smaller. These cyclones did a phenomenal job of pulling that all out of the air, meaning we rarely had to change filters on the shop vacs. Regarding your question of a second cyclone, Oneida actually has this as a potential configuration. Below is the link to the dust deputy manual, page 13 has the diagram of what you described. Great minds think alike! www.oneida-air.com/amfile/file/download/file/338/product/857/

@@NorthwestCraftsman thanks! I’m pouring over the link you sent me.

The impeller certainly has plenty of power! For a long time I ran it alone to a cyclone and it was strong enough to filter everything out 😂 super cool that you got to meet the guy!

Hey there! That’s a cool project! On something that large, I wouldn’t even like it on a table, pretty unwieldy to move on its own. I’m not sure if your router has this but the Bosch router I have has an edge guide you can use (link below). If yours has something similar, I’d do that. Bosch Edge Guide amzn.to/4c9mOq6

Glad you found it helpful!

Great question! For all of my videos, I post a link to the hardware in the description. For this video, here’s all the hardware I used. Products Used* Urethane Bandsaw Tires: amzn.to/31P5OTX Olson Cool Blocks: amzn.to/2HzmS9A Blade, Band Saw, Wood Slicer: www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx Belt, V-Linkable: amzn.to/34zD6bh Belt, V-Traditional: amzn.to/3kBkqgW Zip Ties: amzn.to/31Mzl0c

😂 oh trust me, I’ve received plenty of “feedback” for it 😂 sometimes I can’t help myself. It’s hot and I like my flip flops 😂 and thanks! Glad you liked it!

Great question. I still get tear out but also don’t do a ton of finished plywood work. When I have, I’ve used my tracksaw which does marvels for tear out or I blue tape the back side of the plywood which is better than nothing but not perfect. Where I get the worst tear out is on warped panels that leave the back fully unsupported during the cut. So generally I try to avoid those panels (I.e. get higher quality panels)

Great question. Mine did when it wasn’t fully inserted and then the rotation lock would push it a little. I needed to shove the blade in pretty hard to get it to seat correctly.

Fascinating! Has it held up over those years?

@@NorthwestCraftsman Yes sir it has! It doesn’t get heavy use as I also have a Router in my ancient Delta Rockwell table saw extension. It’s fascinating this design has endured. Mine also has legs so it stands alone. I’m really sure I’ve seen this same design under other names as well. I also bought a cheap Drill Press from that company as well. Still hanging in there. It even has a laser!……..Cheers

I think it may just be a difference in terminology. Net net, I think we agree that there will be a drop in performance if only flex tube is used. And I certainly agree with you, the straighter and shorter, the better.

Thanks, Andy! I’m glad you found it helpful! I hope you enjoy it as much as I have and welcome to the community!

Great question! Luckily no, the collet nut is able to pass through the opening. I will say, though, there is a guy on Etsy that 3-D prints better dust collectors than this one. Here is a link to his page creatoriq.cc/3lXYjr3

So glad you found it helpful! 😃

That’s an interesting idea! You’re right though, sun seems to be the mortal enemy of epoxy. I’m going to be interested in how all of these epoxy tables age.

Thanks! Glad to hear from a Kiwi! Have an awesome weekend! Josh

@@NorthwestCraftsman Yeah!!! ya have a great weekend as well bro !!! enjoy ya summer we are coming into our winter here !!!

Hope you had a great summer! I’m very much looking forward to ours and I appreciate your well wishes 😊

That’s a great question! There’s a guy on Etsy that makes them. It looks like he may be taking a break from making these but this is his page. www.etsy.com/shop/SOLIDink3d

@@NorthwestCraftsman Thank you!

Absolutely!

You’re 100% right 😂 I whiffed this completely and only found out when folks like you let me know. Thank you!

Thanks for letting me know!

Glad I could help!

Agreed. It was well worth the money to have this crew come in. And absolutely! We decided to build the largest building we could afford now and spread out the rest. Next big step will be the concrete, then insulating, and then eventually a loft.

That’s certainly another way to do it! At the time I did this, the plywood was much cheaper and I saved all the cutouts to use elsewhere. If I were to do it again, I’d do it like you suggested. Mostly to keep it lighter. I tried the box fan for a while but it doesn’t have the static pressure needed to effectively pull air through a filter. It does some, but not nearly enough. If you get a chance, you should check out ShopHacks write up on this build (I based this off their results). They put a ton of good work into it.

@@NorthwestCraftsman you got that plywood cheaper than a 2x4?

Nope, but it wasn’t the wildly expensive you see now.

I’m sorry, that’s never my goal. I’ll work to correct this in future videos. Thanks for the heads up.

Glad you liked it! And wow that’s a lot. How long are the pieces you need to cross lap? If they’re longer than can be reasonably managed on the table saw with a dado stack, I would use the router. If they’re short enough to handle on the table, saw, I would use it. I may also see if you can clamp all your pieces together to cut the cross laps for one spot in one or two passes. This should be possible with either method.

Thanks! I appreciate your kind words.

All good! I was there not long ago 😊 one way that you could use remember it is the tenon is like the tail or the tip whichever makes the most sense to you 😊 but in a pinch, you communicated it very clearly.

You can, the issue you’ll run into is replacement air. If you’re fine pulling in outside air, absolutely. Just give yourself one of those passive dryer vents pointing into your shop. If you condition the air in your shop (hotter or colder) then getting a filter and dumping back into your shop is the best bet.

Great question! It’s handled all the normal stuff I throw it at but I’m certainly still looking for something with more power and vertical capacity. For most of your standard holes, this thing is great. For anything over 1/2” or something other than wood, I’d go with something that has more power.

Wow! Thanks for the fast reply! I’m also considering the 10” vevor for $30ish more. I think you answered my main concern about the 8”. I’m drilling wood and acrylic so I think the power is more than adequate. I appreciate your honesty and quick reply!

@@adamferguson2101 oh yea! It should be great for acrylic! And for $30 more, that makes sense!